Cleaning Tips
A few of our favorite
cleaning tips for when you must clean alone.
Stain Removal
Ceramic tile floors
Grout
Hard water spots
Mini-blinds
No-wax/linoleum floors
Painted wall cleaning
Pet hair removal from upholstery and carpets
Pet stain
removal from carpets
Soap scum in
tubs and showers
Toilet bowl ring
removal
Wood floors
Stain removal from
clothes
Candle wax removal from upholstery, wood or carpet
Pergo floors
Marble and granite floors
Kitchen
cabinets
Spot removal from
dishwasher
Fireplace hearth
Dust
Windows
Odor removal
Stain Removal
In addition to cleaning wood floors, Murphy Oil Soap makes a
great laundry pre-spotter, especially on organic stains like
grass or blood. Wet washable, colorfast fabric, add a drop
of Murphy directly to the stain, squish through the fabric
and wash as usual. Visit
www.murphyoilsoap.com for more cleaning tips.
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Ceramic tile floors
No need to wax. Just sweep and mop on a regular basis and
they stay clean and shiny. Mop floors with clear water or
just a dash of liquid dish soap. Be sure to change the water
when it gets cloudy. Too much soap or dirty water will make
floors dull or sticky. Don't use scrub pads on ceramic tile
floors or you might scratch them. Our professional cleaners
wash most floors by hand, cleaning and drying a small area
at a time.
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Grout
Grout needs to be cleaned and re-sealed once a year to keep
stains out.
Old grout may need cleaning with a wax stripper or
heavy-duty cleaner plus a grout brush. Use a bleaching
cleanser on tough spots. Once the grout is as clean as you
can get it, rinse it well. When it's thoroughly dry, apply a
coat of masonry sealer so that it doesn't absorb dirt in the
future.
For mildewed grout in tubs or showers, use a grout brush
with a 1:5 solution of chlorine bleach and water. Never use
bleach in combination with any ammonia-based product and be
sure the area is well-ventilated. When you've finished
cleaning, rinse the area well to remove all traces of
bleach.
Clean colored grout with a heavy-duty cleaner and a grout
brush, but don't use bleach because this may remove the
color from the grout. Be sure never to use a bleaching
solution on colored grout. A masonry sealer can be applied
to clean, colored grout to ward off future stains.
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Hard water spots
Hard-water deposits are alkaline, so an acid-based cleaner
is the best way to clean them. Phosphoric acid works well
and is safe for most surfaces. Grocery store cleansers with
phosphoric acid contain 4 percent to 6 percent acid. You can
purchase lime scale removers at janitorial supply stores
that contain 8 percent to 12 percent acid to get the job
done faster. A higher concentration of acid is safe on most
household surfaces as long as you rinse the surface to
remove all traces of the acid after the cleaning is
complete. Let the acid sit for a few minutes after you apply
it to let it work. Tough hard-water deposits may take more
than one application. Scrub the applied areas with a white,
nylon-backed scrub sponge. Make sure you read any
manufacturer's warnings before applying phosphoric acid
solutions to surfaces in your home.
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Mini-blinds
Wipe down mini-blinds with a damp fabric softener sheet.
This eliminates the static that causes dust to stick. The
same trick works for TV and monitor screens.
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No-wax/linoleum floors
Regular vacuuming or sweeping is the best way to maintain
the finish. Then damp mop with plain water or add just a
drop of liquid dish soap. If the floor has some tough spots
to clean, use a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge. This will
keep soil from wearing away the surface. However, if time
and traffic eventually dull the glossy top layer, you may
want to add a floor finish or wax to restore the shine.
Choose any good commercial floor polish or try a
self-polishing, metal-interlock floor finish available from
a janitorial supply. Traffic areas may need finish applied
more often than the rest of the floor. It's a good idea to
keep doormats at all the entrances to your home, as they
will catch much of the dirt that could eventually damage
your floors.
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Painted wall cleaning
The type and quality of the paint greatly affects how you
clean a wall and how easily dirt comes off. Generally, there
are four types of paint finishes:
- Baked enamel (most appliance finishes), epoxy enamel
and automotive paints.
These paints are durable and stain-resistant. Dirt
typically cannot penetrate the hard finish. These
surfaces can withstand scouring with mild abrasives, and
can also handle heavy-duty cleaners and degreasers. With
these finishes, be most careful of scratching or dulling
the finish by using harsh abrasives, steel wool, colored
scrub pads and strong solvents.
- General-purpose enamels.
Most often found on interior walls, especially kitchen
and bathroom walls, this surface is stain-resistant and
can handle moderate scrubbing. Do not use abrasive
substances or colored scrub pads, which can scratch the
finish. Use a neutral cleaning solution and a white,
nylon-backed scrub sponge. Only use heavy-duty cleaners
or abrasive cleansers when you're willing to take your
chances on ruining the paint. If you have latex enamel
paints, avoid leaving them wet for more than a minute or
so. Oil-based enamels are more water-resistant. Keep in
mind that gloss enamels are the most durable and
washable, followed by semi-glosses and then satin
finishes.
- Latex flat.
The most common household paint, flat latex is not as
washable as enamels. Heavy-duty cleaners or hard
scrubbing can remove the paint along with any dirt. Use
mild detergents and gentle scrubbing, and don't let any
solution sit on the surface for more than a minute.
- Exterior paints.
These paints are typically oil-based or latex and should
be scrubbed only with a mild detergent and then rinsed
with a hose. Use a long-handled brush for hard-to-reach
areas or stubborn spots. Some people like to use
pressure washers on the outside of their homes, but like
harsh chemicals, these can loosen the paint, so use with
caution.
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Pet hair removal from upholstery and carpets
To remove pet hair from fabric or upholstery, try a pet rake
(a brush with crimped nylon bristles), velour brush, tape
roller or even tape wrapped around your hand. Use light,
even strokes to remove the hair. Another option is to try
the rubber bottom on a clean tennis shoe or a slightly
dampened sponge (as long as the dampness won't harm the
upholstery).
To remove pet hair from carpet, use a vacuum with a good
beater brush or brush roll. Plain vacuums don't generate
enough lift to remove all the pet hair from the floor.
Another option for both upholstery and carpets - especially
at the edges where pet hair tends to collect and vacuums
have a hard time reaching - is a "pet sponge." These
sponges, which are used dry, are available at pet supply
stores.
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Pet stain removal from carpets
First, blot up any liquid by putting towels or absorbent
rags over the spot and stepping on them. Start with gentle
pressure and increase it up to putting your full weight
down. Change to fresh rags or towels, until no more liquid
comes up.
For fresh stains, apply a bacteria/enzyme digester from a
pet store, following the directions - it's the only way to
deal effectively with both the stain and the odor.
Bacteria/enzyme digesters work slowly, so leave the solution
on as long as the directions say. Urine has probably
penetrated into the carpet and pad, so use enough solution
to reach as far down as the stain. Apply the solution, put
plastic over it, and step on the spot several times until
the area is well saturated. Then, leave the plastic on the
whole time the digester is working to make sure the spot
doesn't dry out.
Old or dry stains are hard - sometimes even impossible - to
remove, but try the bacteria/enzyme digester. If it's a
popular accident site, the bacteria may produce enough
ammonia in the course of breaking down the stains to create
a super-alkaline situation that interferes with its own
action. In this case, you may need to neutralize the spot
after the digester has been working for about four hours.
Mix a solution of one cup of vinegar to a gallon of warm
water. Rinse the area with this solution and apply a fresh
batch of bacteria/enzyme solution.
If the stain or odor remains, call a professional
deodorizing specialist. A complete cure will probably
involve cleaning the entire carpet by extraction and
replacing the pad underneath, if not replacing the carpet.
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Soap scum in tubs and showers
Since preventing soap scum build-up is a lot easier than
cleaning it, squeegee water off shower walls and doors after
every use or wipe them down with a towel. For tile walls or
frosted shower doors, apply a light coating of lemon oil
periodically to help prevent build-up. For a porcelain tub,
apply a light coat of boat or car wax to the sides (never
the bottom) of the tub.
If it's too late for prevention, use a degreasing agent and
lots of elbow grease. Get a good alkaline soap scum remover
at a janitorial supply store or dissolve a handful of
automatic dishwasher detergent in a bucket of warm water.
Cover the affected area completely and let your cleaning
solution soak for at least 15 minutes. Do it right after a
shower when the walls will be wet. After soaking, use a
stiff scrub brush or a white, nylon-backed scrub sponge to
clean the walls. You may need to soak and scrub a couple of
times to get rid of all the build-up. Then rinse well with
clear water.
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Toilet bowl ring removal
The earlier you attack this problem, the easier it will be
to remove the ring. A thorough cleaning with a commercial
acid-based bowl cleaner may do the trick. If the bowl
cleaner doesn't work, try using a green, nylon-backed scrub
sponge along with the acid. For an old ring, use a pumice
stone. Wet the stone with the water in the bowl and rub it
on the ringKeep the stone wet the entire time you're
scrubbing. Pumice stones should only be used on vitreous
china toilets - never on colored, enamel or plastic
fixtures. Once you've gotten rid of a ring, weekly cleanings
should keep it from coming back.
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Wood floors
Vacuum and dust mop regularly to prevent dirt from building
up and damaging the surface. Any wood floor can be cleaned
with a quarter-cup of apple cider vinegar mixed with a
gallon of warm water. Wood floors are best cleaned on your
hands and knees because you should only clean a small area
at a time and then dry it and move on. Never get wood floors
too wet or allow them to dry naturally. Finished wood floors
often can be cleaned just with water. However, the finish
will eventually wear off, and you'll either have to
re-finish the floors or start waxing them.
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Stain removal from clothes
Happy Homes doesn't provide laundry service, so we can't
expertly address stains you find on fabrics. However, we can
suggest a web site that may be able to help you. The site is
sponsored by Tide, and can be found at:
http://www.laundry.com/staindetective/
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Candle wax removal from upholstery, wood or carpet
To remove the wax from carpet or upholstery, you will need a
plain brown paper bag and a steam iron. Paper grocery bags
work well.
1. Cut open the brown paper bag so it lays flat.
2. Lay the brown paper bag on the affected carpet., with any
printing away from the carpet.
3. Set the steam iron on a moderate setting and plug it in.
Allow it to warm up.
4. Once warmed up, place the steam iron on top of the brown
paper bag over the wax spot. Move the iron back and forth
over the wax spot. The iron should never come in direct
contact with the carpet, only the paper bag. As the wax
warms up it will begin to absorb into the paper bag.
5. When a dark spot appears on the bag, move a dry area of
the bag over the wax spot and continue to move the steam
iron over the area.
6. When no further wax absorbs into the bag, you have
removed the wax.
To remove candle wax from wood, apply a plastic bag filled
with ice to the spot, until the wax is brittle enough to
crumble off. If some candle wax remains, place an ink
blotter on the area and apply a hot pressing iron to the top
of the blotter.
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Pergo floors
The manufacturers of Pergo recommend damp mopping at least
once a week and sweeping or vacuuming with an attachment
more often if you are concerned about scratches.
Do not use soaps or detergents because they may leave a
film, dulling the floor. If you do use a floor cleaner, you
will need to dry the floor as you go to prevent streaking. Pergo floors must never be waxed,
polished, sanded or refinished.
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Marble and granite floors
If polished marble or granite is protected with floor
finish, the finish must be buffed or burnished and
periodically replaced to keep the surface protected and
looking good.
Because marble and granite are sensitive and porous, they
need to be cleaned with a neutral cleaner solution and then
polished dry. Test the neutral floor cleaner in an
inconspicuous spot, because porous floors are extremely
sensitive, and even cleaners that claim they can be used on
marble may hurt it. Scratched and dull surfaces can be
revived with a marble restorer (available from janitorial
supply stores)
Cultured marble and certain types of granite are stronger
than real marble and stone, but they do lose their luster
after being cleaned for years. Clean with a spray bottle
filled with all-purpose or disinfectant cleaner and a soft
cloth. Always keep the area wet while working. Never use
powdered cleansers, steel wool, metal scrapers or colored
scrub pads on cultured marble or granite. If the surface is
worn and looks dull even after cleaning, polishing compound
may bring back the glow. A little appliance wax, car wax or
silicone sealer will also help fill fine scratches and
restore the shine.
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Kitchen cabinets
Most cabinets are factory manufactured and finished, and
even wood cabinets have enough varnish or other protective
coating so that you can use a cleaning solution. The oil
slick that builds up on cabinets - especially around the
handles - is a combination of kitchen grease, food smears,
skin oil and hand lotion transferred to the cabinet.
All-purpose cleaners aren't equal to the challenge.
If your cabinets are plastic laminate (formica or other
plastic), metal, painted metal or glass, you can wash them
all over with a strong alkaline cleaner, which is available
at a janitorial supply store. Or use a heavy-duty cleaner
from the supermarket. Mix according to directions and apply
the solution with a sponge. Let it sit a minute or two, then
take a white, nylon-backed sponge and scrub wherever
necessary. Remove the grimy suds from the sponge by
squeezing it into the sink or a slop bucket, never back into
your cleaning solution. Then rinse with a damp cloth and
wipe dry with a terry cleaning cloth to remove any last
traces of scum and leave the cupboards clean and glowing.
Never use acids or powdered cleansers on cabinets. A good
overall washing once a year should be enough. Keep a spray
bottle of all-purpose cleaner handy the rest of the time and
spot-clean after heavy kitchen use.
On wooden cabinets, take a gentler approach. To get off
stubborn dirt, wash around all handles and any other grease
zones first with hand dishwashing detergent. Then wash the
entire cabinet, including the handle areas, with an oil soap
solution. Just wipe lightly with the solution and buff dry
immediately with a terry cleaning cloth. Always wipe dry
with any grain or pattern. Seldom do you need to add any
polish because the surface has its own sheen when clean. If
your cabinets are dull from wear or age, spray furniture
polish very lightly once a year or so to fill in the pores
and bring back some life.
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Spot removal from dishwasher
Brown, red or black deposits may be caused by iron or
manganese in the water. To remove, start the empty
dishwasher on the rinse and hold cycle; while the machine is
filling, open the door and add 1/2 cup rust remover from a
janitorial supply store to the water; then allow the cycle
to finish.
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Fireplace hearth
Cleaning the face of a fireplace is a project that demands
patience. Fireplace stone and brick may be hard, but they're
also porous. This means it has plenty of tiny holes for soil
to accumulate in.
First, make sure the floor around the fireplace is well
covered with drop-cloths. Mix a solution of high-alkaline
cleaner and one ounce of chlorine bleach per gallon of warm
water. . Wet the surface of the fireplace well with the
solution, but don't use so much that it runs. Dirty water
running down the face may cause hard-to-remove streaks. Then
scrub the solution in with a brush. You should see the suds
getting dark and dirty as the buildup comes off. Rinse well.
If the surface is shadowy, a light cleaning with a
phosphoric acid cleaner may be enough to brighten it the
rest of the way. Don't use any acid stronger than phosphoric
as it will damage the brick or stone.
If the results still aren't satisfying, make a poultice of
heavy-duty cleaner, bleach and diatomaceous earth and apply
it to the areas needing attention. This should draw out any
remaining residue. If necessary, repeat these steps until
you get the result you want. The color of the brick or stone
determines how aggressive your use of bleach can be. Heavy
bleaching will whiten a dark surface and cause it to look
out of place. You can use a stronger solution on white or
light surfaces.
If you're not comfortable taking these kinds of chances with
your facing, you may want to call in a professional chimney
sweep.
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Dust
Eighty percent of the dirt in your house walks in through
the door on people's feet. The right kind of mats placed
inside and out of all entrances will help cut down on
cleaning time. Choose professional mats you see at the
entrances of hospitals and supermarkets, which are available
at a janitorial supply store. They're called walk-off mats
because they give the dirt a chance to be walked off before
it gets in. Walk-off mats are usually nylon or olefin with a
rubber or vinyl back for inside the door, and rubber or
vinyl-backed synthetic turf for outside on the step. They're
available in a variety of colors. To do their job well, both
the inside and outside mats should be four strides long.
Vacuum mats regularly or shake them outside. Hose them down
and scrub with an all-purpose cleaner as needed. You can
also use upholstery shampoo or a wet/dry vacuum to clean
them. It's important to always hang them until completely
dry so that moisture isn't trapped under the vinyl backing.
If there are any unsealed concrete or mortar joints, they
can bleed off bits of sand and concrete dust onto
surrounding surfaces. You should also make sure your windows
and doors seal tightly. Some utility companies will inspect
your home for free to determine if you have any cracks where
things could be going out or coming in.
Keep vacuum bags, filters, seals and gaskets in good repair
to prevent fine dust from being blown back into the air as
you vacuum.
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Windows
The best way to clean windows, or any large expanse of
glass, is with a squeegee. It does a faster and better job.
You need a professional-quality squeegee and a window wand.
If you'll be cleaning high windows, you also will need an
extension pole. The basic process is simple - apply the
cleaning solution with the window wand and pull the dirt and
water off with the squeegee.
In detail.
1. Mix a capful of ammonia or five drops of liquid dish
detergent in two gallons of water. Resist the urge to use
too much detergent; that causes streaking.
2. Dip your window scrubbing wand or a sponge 3/4 of an inch
into the solution, picking up just enough water to wet the
window without flooding it. Wet the entire window then go
back over it once to loosen any stubborn soil. Last, run the
scrubber against the frame on all sides of the window to
pick up any dirt you've pushed against the frame.
3. Dampen the squeegee blade before you start and wipe it
with a damp cloth between strokes. A dry blade will skip and
jump on the window instead of gliding smoothly.
4. Tilt the squeegee at an angle so that only about an inch
of the rubber blade presses lightly against the top of the
window glass. Then pull the squeegee across the window
horizontally. This will leave a 1-inch dry strip across the
top of the window. Squeegee across the top first, so you
eliminate drips running down.
5. Place the squeegee close to the frame in the dry area
near the top and pull down to about three inches from the
bottom of the glass. Continue this way across the window,
overlapping into the clean, dry area with each stroke, and
wiping the blade with a damp cloth after each stroke.
6. Finish with a horizontal stroke across the bottom and
wipe any water off the sill with a damp cloth.
On some windows, it's easier to cut the water off the frame
side as well as the top, and then squeegee the entire pane
using horizontal strokes. Large (picture) windows should be
wet and squeegeed half at a time, the top half first.
Finally, if you're cleaning both the inside and outside of
the window, squeegee horizontally on one side and vertically
on the other, so you can tell whether any streaks are inside
or out.
Large (picture) windows should be wet and squeegeed half at
a time, the top half first.
Finally, if you're doing both the inside and outside the
window, you may want to squeegee horizontally on one side
and vertically on the other, so you can tell whether any
streaks are inside or out.
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Odor removal
For all odors, the first thing you should do is to remove
the cause of the odor.
To remove smoke film from washable surfaces, use a solution
of heavy-duty cleaner or degreaser. A dash of water-soluble
deodorizer from a janitorial supply store added to the
solution will help neutralize the odor. For smoky windows,
add one part isopropyl alcohol to five parts window cleaner
to help cut the oily film.
Smoke on porous surfaces is a tougher proposition. Light
smoke film on acoustic ceiling tile can be removed by
professional ceiling cleaners, but heavy buildup usually
requires painting or replacement of the tile. Upholstered
furniture, draperies and carpeting can be wet- or
dry-cleaned, as appropriate, after a thorough vacuuming,
with water-soluble deodorizer added to the cleaning solution
to control residual smoke odor.
If you smoke in the home, change the filter in their air
circulation systems often.
Also, make sure you let the sun in to help dissipate smoke
and other odors as you try to eliminate the cause. Try to
increase air flow by opening windows, turning on fans or
even putting particularly smelly items outside for awhile.
You can fill small dishes with vanilla, vinegar or activated
charcoal for an easy, inexpensive smoke eater. Or, you can
purchase odor neutralizer from a janitorial supply house
which will work more effectively.
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